Good things

Woo! #1: I just found out that I DON"T need to be here over break!! I maybe gave the impression that my "learning about Korean language and culture" was a bit more formal that it really is. I also maybe asked about how they would let me know not to come in if there was bad weather, how to call in sick, and how many days I had to take as "sick" before I needed a doctor's note. (no one who speaks English will be around over break) I also wrote a letter that was almost a work of art. If ass-kissing is an art. If not, it was just really good ass-kissing.

Woo! #2: The package my parents sent in mid-October arrived! Yay!! Today is the last day I will be at this school until mid-February, so in terms of coming through at the last minute, this was spot-on.

Woo #3: New Year's plans in Suncheon are in full effect. Tomorrow, it looks like after I take care of friends' pets, I will head to Suncheon. There will be ice-skating, sauna-ing, and food that isn't Korean. Sunday, I will dash back to take care of the critters, and then will do what I am told to do. Which it seems may involve watching the sun rise from a temple in Yeosu on the morning of the 1st. How this will happen has yet to be determined. Details.

Okay, because pictures always make things more interesting, here are some from last week/weekend:

grade 1 middle school at my main school. that is about the equivalent of 7th grade in the States


Grade 2 middle school students at my country school


Grade 1 middle, country school


Me and Virginia the Organizer (a compliment, really) in Gwangju.



I'm in hyper-paranoid-data-loss worry still, so I bought a flickr pro and am uploading before editing a lot of stuff. If you want to see a gazillion other pictures (warning, some of them are really kind of crappy) go here.

4.5 months

Illustration of adaptation:

This morning I was running late so I brought most of my oatmeal to school.

I ate it with chopsticks.

It should probably be noted that I tend to make my oatmeal kind of thick, and that when faced with the choice between the plastic spoon that had been used by uncountable people or the metal chopsticks that were in the sterilizer thingy, my decision was basically made for me, but still.

external hard drive failure

it seems that i have a fried external hard drive on my hands. Which means I may have lost almost 20 gigs of music, all pictures that weren't uploaded to flickr or photobucket, and all documents.

I should be able to retrieve things like my resume that were sent via email, but most of my grad school papers are gone. More than anything, it is the pictures that have me the most worried.

I currently have the hard drive in the freezer, as I've read that can buy me some time to transfer data. I gave it 45 minutes a while ago, and while I got it to boot, it wouldn't read. I'm hoping if I give it more time I'll be able to at least grab most of the pictures and the documents. It sucks to lose the music, but that can be replaced.

I'm basically looking at this thing as being dead. I'm willing to take any and all suggestions in terms of getting any data possible off the thing.

Weekend

The past week or so has been pretty wonderful - from meeting a couple from Germany who live about a 5 minute walk from my apartment (friends of a friend), to school festivals (pictures coming soon), to seeing a friend's band and Western food and talking to cute boys in Gwangju, to the two-day Christmas party in Gwangyang. I feel like I have friends here, which is really nice.

To the families we are given and the families we create - may the new year bring us all much love. And as the days get a little longer, may we all have a bit more brightness in all our lives.

yogurt sauce.

Note to self:



Even though the package on the healthier yogurt says that it is plain, it is not. Even though it has less sweet than all the others, it is still too sweet to cook with and have it turn out the way you want it to.



You will forget this is a few months when you really want a sour cream/stroganoff/yogurt based sauce and decide that it really wasn't all that bad after all.



It was.



Don't do it.



Even though you totally will. And you will be just as disappointed in the outcome.



love,

me.

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Holiday

The holidays so far:

* Santa has started to arrive, and between a stuffed animal from my niece, a candle from my sister, a new plant that looks a little like a tree, and a needlepoint angel I made a couple of years ago (really, it is a lot more cool than it sounds...) I have a little corner of Christmas in my apartment. This is more effort then I have put forth in years.
* Have I mentioned how awesome my family is? Because they rock.
* Thursday is the school festival at my regular school, and Friday is the festival at the country school I go to. I'm pretty excited that I get to see both.
* Friday night is a party at the "foreigner bar" in Jungma (Gwangyang). Not really sure what that will entail. Probably general frivolity. And cheese and crackers.
* Saturday, a friend's band will be playing in a nearby city (Gwangju), so a LOT of people will be heading over to see/hear them play. Will be spending the night there.
* Sunday and Monday will be dinner/breakfast at the apartment of some friends here. We did a drawing for Secret Santa, so there will be food and gift exchange and people hanging out and general goodness.


I'm not sure what is going on for New Year's. I start the city middle school English Winter Camp January 2nd, and I think I'm running another 5K race January 7th (if the people I was going to join remember/I can still register). The weekend after is a meet-up for the the rock climbing group here (in a gym this time. crazy, but not insane).

After that, I'm still trying to find a way to get out of having to be here every day I'm not officially on vacation. I'm also trying to decide exactly what I'm doing for winter break. The main goals are beach and warm, so as long as those two things are accomplished, I'll be pretty happy.

food

1.) I have made meringue cookies with egg whites, cream of tarter, and splenda using an electric mixer, and if i remember correctly, I can do it without the cream of tarter if necessary. What I'm wondering right now is if I can do it in a blender, as I don't have a hand mixer and mixers cost about $30 here. Thoughts? I may just try it to see, but if anyone can give me a head's up as to why this might not be the greatest idea, I'd appreciate it.



2.) this PDF from Precision Nutrition looks interesting. I'm wondering what would happen if I replaced the cottage cheese/ricotta cheese in some of the recipes with the really, really soft tofu in a tube. Again with the reasons this may not be the greatest idea would be helpful.



3.) How I lived before discovering the joy of baked tofu, I'll never know. It may be one of my favorite things right now.

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teaching

This morning was notable in that for the first time in a while, I felt like a real teacher.

Granted they were playing a game, but students were engaged, focused, and on task. The only person sleeping was legitimately ill. While much of the discussion was in Korean, kids were arguing and supporting English word choice, justifying their answers, and making creative choices. Once I reviewed the words and taught the game, they were almost totally self-sufficient.

Kids may have been sitting on the tables, but they were learning and working and thinking instead of just regurgitating information and I felt a little bubble of happiness.

School days

In talking to my folks, it was pointed out to me that I really don't talk much about the actual teaching part of teaching here.

So, to rectify that a bit, here is an overview of my work-life here (this gets long - the short version is that I teach at two schools and have 2 adult workshops/week):

I am at school from 8:30-4:30, no matter how many classes I happen to have that day, except for Thursday when I go to the elementary school up the street.

There are about 850 kids in my home-base school, and over the course of two weeks, I am scheduled to see them all (this rarely happens, as there is usually a schedule change, a class gets pulled, or something else happens). I usually have three 45 minute classes per day, as well as both a middle school and an elementary school teacher workshop each week. I go to a second middle school every Friday, and I see all ~30 kids there every week.

At my regular school, I can basically do what ever I want. I have three different grade levels, but there is such a wide range of ability within those classes (and I see them so rarely) that I usually plan one basic lesson and differentiate slightly based on the ability level of the students. My classes at this school are between 29-36 students each.

For a while this year, I have struggled with figuring out what my role here really is. What I have settled on for now is that my class is a time for students to hear English spoken by someone who grew up speaking it, realize that using English can be fun, and to practice speaking as much as possible. Those are really the only things I can give to my students that they don't get in their regular classes. So I play a lot of games, review and introduce some vocabulary, and try to be as engaging as possible. Also, this makes management a million times easier for me, since they know that if they are obnoxious it just takes longer to get to the game. Oh, and I use intermittent reinforcement with candy to buy their cooperation (though they will compete against each other even without the bribe most of the time).

At the country school, I have been asked by the teacher I work with to teach from the text. I can add additional activities, but still, the lesson from the book needs to be completed. There are weeks when I can do whatever I want, and with these classes it is a ton of fun. I LOVE coming to this school! The classes are tiny (about 10 kids/class) and the kids are awesome.

The ability level of the teachers in my two workshops are pretty dramatically different. The middle school group is pretty high, and so I use "modeling" of more interactive teaching techniques as a way to review basics, and have had some great conversations with this group. My elementary school group has one person with very strong English skills and two who are either intimidated by the older woman or who have a more difficult time with English - probably a bit of both. This is the group that is teaching me how to curse and how to tell old men to leave me alone.

I have an English Lab to teach out of, but the monitor for the video/computer project part is broken. In Korea, the students stay in their homeroom and the teachers move from classroom to classroom for most subjects.

Teachers have work areas in a couple of different rooms in the school based on if they have a homeroom or not. I am in the main teacher's room, and have been told that it is a lot less fun then being in the grade-level homeroom teacher rooms, as it is a lot less social and the vice principal is in there.

Classes are 45 minutes long, and there is a 10 minute break between each. Students get about an hour for lunch/playtime. Also, the students are responsible for cleaning the school. Imagine how well a 14 year old would clean a bathroom, and you have an idea of the cleanliness of the school.

I probably should update some of this with pictures at some point...

ramblings

I was talking to a friend the other night about what he missed about teaching here. In addition to the basics - missing friends and food and the ease of planning on lesson every couple of weeks, he mentioned missing being removed from the drama and politics of being in a school.

Because of language, I'm immune to all of the nit-picking and bickering, gossip and criticisms that tend to go along with working in schools everywhere. I don't have to worry about grades or being held responsible for student performance on standardized tests, or what the teacher down the hall thinks of my management style, or who so-and-so is dating. I smile, show up, and have fun with my students.

But often I find myself really missing the community that goes along with teaching in a school. I look at some of the teachers, and try to figure out who I would have been friends with if I was able to actually communicate other than the most basic of pleasantries. I think I would have been able to hang out with the Korean teacher who tries to teach me both basic words and interjections, and who gave me some sort of powder to use as a mask/scrub (which is AWESOME, by the way - it might get its own post). I also would have liked to get to know the quite teacher who asks about my knitting every once in a while, or the one who always makes sure I know where to go for anything we do as a group. There is the teacher who is a little scary, but spikes better than almost every other teacher in the school (men included) and the secretary at the country school I go to who makes me rosette pins or hair ornaments. The PE teacher who will have to leave for the army soon and who break dances between plays during volleyball games, the soccer coach who drinks protein shakes and lifts weights, or the teacher who is a mother of twins and who is more competitive and has more fun playing volleyball than anyone else on the court.

Of course, I don't mind at all that I'm fairly insulated from the corporal punishment, or the backstabbing or any of the hugely long list of things that suck about being in a school here. I guess I just wonder what it would be like if I really could communicate. I mean, even if I get to the point where my Korean isn't just at a survival level, having a real, in-depth conversation might be beyond me. And while I feel like I'm starting to have a community of friends both in the general area (Suncheon, Yeosu) and within my immediate living area (Gwangyang), it is different than what I am used to from being in a regular school environment. Even as an outsider in New Orleans and in New Mexico, I was still a part of the school community. Now? I don't really know what I am. The teachers love that I eat in the cafeteria and that I play volleyball, that I'm nice and say hello and try to use some of the little Korean I know, and they notice that the kids like me and that I'm nice to them. I'm kind of like a mascot in many ways - the tall, friendly, smiling foreigner with strange eyes. Like a puppy.

Love from home

I am so, so spoiled!!

The package (which contains a winter coat!!) from my parents that has been taking FOREVER to get here got here! There are things I have knit, and pretty yarn. I'm quite exacted. * ETA: Nope - Santa!!

Also, my sister sent a present! I can't wait to get home to open it. I'll either need a taxi or a ride home today, as the two together are too heavy and awkward to carry home* on my own!! Woo!

*My walk to/from school is about 15 minutes most days. Home is all uphill.

ETA: I got a ride home, and I've been in shock since I've opened the boxes.

I really am without words right now. That in and of itself is shocking, I'm sure.

Thank you. I really am so deeply grateful that so many people are (and have been) thinking of me. I'm actually crying - in a good way - right now.

working

I'm actually trying to work and be creative this afternoon, but I just wanted to take a moment to comment about how easy it is to turn a drinking game into an EFL game.

Um, hi Mom. I mean, not that I have ever played a drinking game or anything like that. I'm just saying. I've heard.

Anyway, moving on.

Kokkiri Bawi and Mokpo pictures

Kokkiri Bawi



From the base of the climb.




I like these pictures because you can see the water and the farmland and sky.

The sun was kind of in and out all day, and so while up there, it wasn't too bad. However, at one point I was wearing almost every shirt, pair of pants, and jacket I had with me. That would be a hood up over a hat with earflaps and 3-4 layers. Cold.

In Mokpo on Saturday night. The street is lines with these lights.

updates

Hey, I'm playing with the template of this blog a bit, and added a bunch of links to people in Korea. If I added you and you don't want it linked for some reason, please let me know. Also, if I SHOULD have you linked and don't, let me know that, too.

The concise version:

This weekend, Mokpo. Good food, good friends, rock climbing (at which I am really bad, but enjoy). In pain, but in that good way that says you tried hard, so it is okay that you got your ass handed to you (at least that's how I'm looking at it).



The more verbose version:
This weekend I went to Mokpo, a town on the opposite side of Korea (on the coast on the China side, whereas I'm on the Japan side) to go rock climbing and hang out with friends.

Saturday afternoon was made up of meeting new people, chai, coffee, talking, the vegetarian buffet (that was almost wipped out by the time we got there but still pretty darn good) and hottok from a street vendor that was WONDERFUL (of course, I'm not sure how you can screw up fried dough with brown sugar and nuts...) and the night was spent at a good friend's apartment with girl talk, homemade banana bread and cheesy movies.

Sunday morning, the best breakfast I've had in months. Seriously. Massive amounts of coffee (for the Canadians, my first experience with Tim Horton's), pancakes, fruit, maple syrup, deliciousness. My friend Sloane is wonderful and amazing.

It was cold but looked like the sun would be out, so we climbed outside. I suck, my fingertips are scraped raw, I fell a bunch, and my entire body hurts right now, but it was a good time. I didn't complete the route - I just couldn't see anything, and what I did see I couldn't make myself do at the end. Back on the ground, I almost couldn't open my nalgene bottle. I was done in. But I tried and I'm learning, so there's that. I think there are pictures, so once I re-charge the batteries, I'll upload what came out.

bullet

* People usually giggle at me when I speak Korean. I ask why, and they say I sound "cute." When I ask what they mean by cute, I only get that my pronounciation is good. Whatever.
* The women in my elementary workshop are great for teaching me how to curse/tell off rude men. "nappun namja"=bad man, and "byeontae"=pervert - but in a really bad way. According to outspoken adjuma in my class, I should use nappun namja for the average run-of-the-mill pervert (like the creepy taxi driver who remembered me from driving me before and scratched the inside of my palm when he wanted to shake my hand yesterday. yuck. They wouldn't tell me exactly what that meant, only that it was very rude and rather sexual.)"shipal byeontae"= the big guns. Shipal is a catch-all curse word, and can mean everything from "damn" on up, and is REALLY rude to use.
* I am going to head to Mokpo to go rock climbing this weekend!
* At this moment, I want a plate of biscuts and gravy with a side of hashbrowns. A lot. Like, way lots.

Verbosity

Yesterday was a happy mail day. One of the packages I've been waiting for showed up (thank you again, Mom! The teachers at my school believe you to be highly concerned about my nutrition - and with the horror of the cafeteria the past few weeks, you should be) and one was totally out of the blue and a wonderful surprise from Dave and Shannon. Between cereals and chocolate, all bases are covered - I can find the diet coke here to complete the trifecta, and I think the combination of the three might be the most perfect thing ever. EVER.

Thank you all so much. I really do appreciate that folks are thinking about me, and it was so wonderful to feel loved.

Also, I was able to figure out how to pay my bills. I know that sounds silly, but being able to do a basic transaction like that on my own (without an interpreter or someone telling me what to do every step of the way) was huge. Here, you have to go to the correct bank in order to have the money transferred to the account for the given company. Some banks will process payments for all the utilities, for others you have to go to the right bank. After some hit and miss, I found the place that would let me pay for everything all at once. Go me - being able to take care of life skills independently.

Today I found out that the South Korea Apple store has an English-speaking customer service rep. And they will accept bank transfers for payment. This is huge, and a little dangerous, as I was able to send money from my bank account here to a bank in Seoul and in 3-5 days will have a new toy on my doorstep. And there was much rejoicing.

I went out to dinner with the folks from my elementary teacher's workshop tonight after class, and it was incredibly good. I think the main reason I'm down on Korean food right now is that most of the Korean food I eat is cafeteria food. And the only good cafeteria food I've had was at the country school I go to most Fridays (which usually is VERY good, and when it isn't, it makes me sad). But tonight, there wasn't a single tentacle on the whole table! (Let's not talk about lunch, which was tentacle surprise. Again.)

stream of consciouness

* I really want cookies right now. Or rather, cookie dough.
* The delicious udon noodle bowl I had for dinner last night either had an enormous amount of MSG or an enormous amount of sodium or both, because I've had a wicked headache all day. Which is sad because the noodles weren't fried, it was cheap, it was low-cal, and it really was pretty tasty.
* The word "mitten" is very close to the Korean word for "crazy." Also, many of the students wearing mittens in class are a little michin.
* The heat is on!! The teacher's room is warm enough that I don't need to wear my coat at my desk! In my classroom I still need it, but I can no longer see my breath in there.
* I have no classes at all tomorrow or Friday due to exams. I'm not sure if I have the two third grade classes on on my schedule for Thursday. I still need to be here all day.
* I'm making up an ESL version of the game Apples to Apples. I tested it with my supplemental class this morning, and they LOVED it. One of the girls with the lowest levels of English in the class was so incredibly clever in her choices, and argued for them really well.
* I'm having a really good time with my classes, once I get them hooked in to whatever we are doing.
* I am wearing a sweater I knit myself today.

cold

In terms of being winter, the outside temperature isn't that bad - right now, it is about 40 degrees f.

However...

The heat isn't on in my school. I could see my breath in the hallway on my way to class this morning. But the teacher's room was finially at least tolerable, and since half my classes were pulled due to exams later this week, it wasn't too horrible. Until the kids came in to clean and opened ALL THE WINDOWS.

I am so cold i can hardly stand it.

I am going to go home and turn on the ondol heat (mmm - heated floors)and force myself to go to the gym before i settle in too much and refuse to go back outside.

Weekend randomness

1. There were snow fluries today. SNOW. It's cold. I understand that I sound like a big whiner when lots of people have had inches of ice and snow and all that, but still, cold. This is like the New Orleans kind of cold where it seems much worse than the temperature actually indicates. Don't like it one bit.

2. The foreigner community in Gwangyang is pretty amazing. Very open, accepting, and while somtimes difficult to get ahold of, inclusive. I've really liked getting to know the handful of folks I've met here so far. This seems to be something that is pretty similar in the smaller towns - while sometimes it can be hard to find people, once you do, they are very welcoming. I've heard that the bigger cities can be different, but from what I've seen here, I feel very lucky.

3. This weekend, I saw a movie in a theatre (!!) in English (!!!)- The Devil Wears Prada - for free because a friend was able to get tickets to the "Art Center" on Jechul (where the Steel company POSCO is located). Also, after some directional mishaps in going to meet people at a rugby game, went to the Outback here for the first time. They had sour cream. And steak. And brown bread. It was delicious.

lists

The good:
+ http://www.pandora.com/ - it will create an internet radio station for you based on an artist you like. So great!
+ The sauna at my gym. Seriously, love. Green tea bath, Oriental medicine bath, the super-hot sauna, the pool with the jets that beat the heck out of my back. Awesome.
+ The super-scrubby bath mitts/towels. Like fine grit sandpaper. Amazing.
+ I just got an external hard drive. Love.
+ Heated floors.
+ The computer guy fixed it so the sound works on my computer. Yay!!
+ Endless cups of green tea in the teacher's room.
+ Taking a corner and feeling confidant on the bike. It really does feel pretty amazing.
+ Overall, things are going pretty well. Nothing dramatic either one way or the other. Just life.

The Bad:
- My face is breaking out more then it ever has. Hate.
- The lady who seems to chew her gum AT me. Seriously, I don't understand how one little woman can get a piece of gum to be that loud.
- School lunch. Either I'm getting more cranky or it is getting worse.
- I have ANOTHER cold.
- There are packages I'm expecting that are taking forever to get here! I have no idea why.
- I can't figure out how to have the heat on but not on full-blast. There should be a balance between nothing and 26 celcus. Just saying.
- I am lacking motivation at the gym. Once I get there, it is okay (other than the lungs not being fully cooperative due to my cold) but it is a chore to get there.
- The classrooms and hallways in my school aren't heated, which is pretty common here. Yesterday, one of the new punishments I saw given out was teachers taking girls' socks, so they had to go barefoot. Well, with sandals, but still.

Daewonsa - this is long, but OOOH! Pictures!

After a spectacularly lousy week (made better by being able to see family at home and friends here) I went with a group of friends to a Tibetan temple in Korea. It was a lot of time on the bus, but was such a beautiful day and so exactly what I needed (both the place and the company) that it was more than worth it.

At 8:40 on Saturday morning, I grabbed a bus to Suncheon. This is of note because I have finally learned where the bus stop in Gwangyeong moved to, and when I'm going all the way to Suncheon or even to Gwangyang-Eup, this is a million times easier and less than half the cost of taking a taxi to the nearest other terminal. Anyway.

From Suncheon, I met up with Chris, Melissa, Virgina, Karen, and Arsalan, and we grabbed a bus to Boseong, which is mostly known for the green tea fields. In Boseong, we got a bus to Daewonsa, where the temple was actually located. A quick note that as I went from bus to bus, the accommodations gradually became less luxurious. I don't think gears are supposed to grind like the ones on the bus to Daewonsa did, but what do I know, right?

A picture from the bus:


And another. This kid was fascinated by us, and just kept looking from one of us to the next. His cheeks were so chubby that from the side you couldn't see his lips. Adorable.


The day was beautiful and when we got to the temple, we wandered around outside the museum for a while before going into the museum and then wandering the temple grounds. The museum talked about how Buddhist had been able to save many items from Tibet by smuggling them through China and got them out to Korea. There are more pictures on the flickr site, but here are a few.

Chris in one of the smaller temples outside the museum:


A statue outside the museum:


Details of the sand mandala. It was hard to get a good picture of the whole thing through the glass, but this shows some of the details, and you should go to Virginia's blog to see the video of it that she uploaded.:


A monkey. My mother said she wanted to see monkeys on the blog. (see what a good daughter I am?! Even if I have issues making it to the post office?)


I love this statue. It may be one of the things that connected with me the most. This is what I want to achieve - a state of peaceful contentedness.


Looking out over the area.


We were all starving at this point, but right before we left to get a late lunch, four of us:


In spring and summer, the grounds are covered in lotus blossoms. Right now, this was the last one we were able to find:



I would love to go back in the spring and summer. This may sound bad, but so often, a temple is a temple is a temple here. This one was different. And it wasn't about going in and looking at alters or any of that. It was incredibly peaceful, and more about being outside and really being able to feel the peace of this place.

...

Which was followed by the anthesis of peace at a party at a friend's place in Jungma. But that was good and necessary in it's own way. I really like having friends that are close to where I live.

Walk to work

This weekend, my family was asking me what daily things were like. I realized I hadn't posted many picture of what it actually looks like here, and while right now it is a little grey and dead-looking, I thought I would post some photos of my walk to work.


My bike. It is parked right outside the door of my apartment building.

Here's another shot:


and another:


They recently repainted my apartment complex, and it looks SO MUCH BETTER!! My complex is the one to the left, and I'm in building 2.


This is walking down the hill from my apartment. This is the market I pass everyday, and the lady who works there is really nice to me.


Inside the market. Kind of a crappy picture, but shows how there is a ton of stuff jammed into a small space.


Just past the market. I thought this tree was pretty.


At the bottom of the hill is my gym.


It was at this point that I realized if I didn't pick up the pace I'd be late for work. I'll continue the series at another time.

webcam

after much drama regarding the iSight and the fact that the order was never processed and that Korea doesn't have an overnight delivery option, I have found that a much less expensive Logitech webcam does, indeed, work with the maccam shareware.

And there was much rejoicing.

So now I have a crappy resolution option for face-to-face chat with folks.

Since I can't do a real Thanksgiving dinner and a poor approximation makes me sad, I am having the most American thing I can think of.

They had tator-tots at Home Plus. Seiously. I swear if they are kimchi flavored I will rant and rave to such a degree you would be able to hear it for miles, but they look like plain tator-tots.

If the cheese whiz didn't look kinda grey, I totally would have bought it.

photos

I'm still waiting for the iSight to arrive (grrr) but for folks who want to see pictures, my flickr account is here. I'll try to take some more of my neighborhood on the way home this evening, and will look through the pictures on my computer at home to see if there is anything else i should add.

My building was recently painted, and actually looks nice now!! Not nearly as pink and mold-speckled as it was before!

Mittens

In an attempt to distract myself, I have started to look for a good mitten pattern. It may also have something to do with the fact that my school is cold. Like, really cold. Anyway.

* An aside: A really good distraction technique is to knit complicated cables. While watching Bittorrented TV, if possible. It is almost impossible to think about anything else.

It started with seeing these at Eunny Jang's site, and falling in love with them. But as I have a cabled hat on the needles that I need to either figure out or rip out (and the pattern isn't up yet), I wanted to think about cabled mittens.

I can't find what I'm looking for right now, but I DID see these socks on Eunny's site: here which is exactly what I want, only mittens. I would probably need to take out about 1.5-2 inches due to gauge and the difference between mitten and sock diameter, which could be done by getting rid of a smaller cable pattern on either side of the main cable, I think. What I haven't started to look for yet is a good tutorial for creating a thumb gussett. I used to have the glove article by Interweave Knits which goes into thumb guessetts in detail, and have yet to attempt the mighty Google, but if anyone either knows of a cabled mitten pattern OR knows of a good on-line tutorial for thumbs, I'd appreciate it.

a list of suck

1. I just found out that last year, the teacher who had my job had to be at school every day other than what was taken as part of the vacation guaranteed by the contract. Most foreign teachers don't have to come to school when there isn't a single thing for us to do. Instead, it looks like I will have to be here if my "learning about Korean culture" excuse doesn't fly.

2. My winter break plans just fell through, and right now I'm not sure what I will be doing. At all. So the whole having to sit at my desk for 5 weeks might not matter.

3. My weekend escape to Seoul just fell through.

4. Everyone will be getting into Indiana in the next few days and I really want to be at home right now.

5. The iSight that I ordered so I would be able to video conference with folks at home hasn't arrived yet.

So overall, I'm not the best of company.

wallet, the update, again

One of my co-teachers picked up my wallet from the post office in Gwangju where it was turned in. No cash (of course) but i DID get my US driver's license back!!

Also, I have found a solution to the winter clothing acquisition problem. Men's 95 is just about perfect - the arms and torso are long enough, and it is easier to find things that are less... embelished. Also, I can get knee socks over my big American calves, which is really exciting, as there are TONS of cute knee socks.

It is a little sad that I am now built like a Korean man, but I'm not sure if it is sad for me or for them. I'm thinking both.

lists.

1.) After a weekend with a friend who ran a 10K with the Canadian flag tied around his neck like a cape and posing behind said flag after the race, I've realized that I have nothing with a US flag on it. I'd like to put a flag sticker (maybe 2-3" across or so) on my bike and probably my helmet, too, to make it more distinctive and less prone to theft. If anyone wants to help me with this, I would appreciate it, and would be happy to send something cute and Korean to you in return. Also, little things like pens/pencils with flags, university names, states, and state or US themed stickers, would be super-useful as token gifts for people who help me out with stuff. Basically, if you can find it in a Stuckey's, that is the kind of thing that would be awesome. But please no pecan rolls. Those are gross.

2.) Another day of random schedule changes. Today, because there was a volleyball tournament for the men (and one token woman/team) from the three schools in town and the police/fire fighters. Or something.

3.) I was sent home with a TON of food. Okay, maybe not a ton, but about 10 tangerines, more than a pound of tofu, and and LOT of dok (sticky rice cakes).

4.) If anyone wants dok, come on over. Seriously.

5.) There are some new folks who have just moved to Gwangyang, and it is really good for me to realize that I DO know something about functioning here. I don't know many people in town (I've been visiting friends for at least half the weekends I've been in Korea) but I know how to navigate public transportation to at least a competent degree, can read enough Hangul to figure out where I am, and know how to find what I need. All good things.

Wallet, the update

Last night, after running around and getting everything canceled and re-issued and all, I got a call from one of my co-teachers (from the lovely little school I go to on Friday).

He had called the post offices in Gwangju, and someone had dropped my wallet in the mail. He will pick it up for me on Thursday, and will give it back to me on Friday.

It was hard to tell, but it seems like all the money was gone but the cards were still in there (which would make sense, as there really is no way a Korean would be able to use a card with my name on it) and I am just crossing my fingers that my Indiana Driver's License is still there, as that was the one thing I didn't know how to go about replacing. I can get a Korean DL by having a US one (not exactly sure how to go about that, but I know it can be done) so not having it makes it far more difficult to be street legal here.

Oh, and I'm driving around my neighborhood with a fair bit of confidence. Still a bit over cautious, but getting to the point where I'm fairly functional.

Startled by efficiency

Short version:

In under 4 hours, I was able to file the police report for "losing" my wallet, get a new alien registration card, get new bank cards/activate the passbook/may be able to use my card as a debit card (WOO!), gets maps of Gwangyang (finally!), go to the hospital to get a refill of my allergy medicine and get the prescription filled.

With color and parenthetical commentary:
My co-teacher was incredibly helpful with all of this. She got the principal to let me shorten my teacher's workshop and called around to see what would need to be done. Another co-teacher drove us to the police station and to the immigration office in Jungma. At the police station, she found out that it would take far longer to get my alien card re-issued if it was "stolen" rather than "lost" and since there is no way I'm seeing it again, no way to prove it was actually stolen, and everything has been canceled, it seemed like the easiest choice. At immigration they were ready to go and all I had to do was fill out a piece of paper and give them a photo. City Hall was right next to the immigration office, and I was able to grab a couple of maps of the area (and made people very happy when I said I could read enough Korean that I didn't need one of the English maps that were in the back). We were able to walk right in at the bank, and the teller was one of the nice ladies who remember me, and said I should be able to use my cards for purchases (usually, when a foreigner opens an account they can only use the cards as ATM cards).

The hospital is what amazes me. I walked in without an appointment, waited about a minute, was able to see the doctor right away, and was out the door again with my allergy medicine prescription. Two minute wait at the pharmacy. Total time spent was less than 10 minutes. Amazing.

Race, pictures

Finish
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

The times in this photo are deceiving, as it doesn't include the four minute headstart they made all of the foreigners and people with special needs take at the beginning.

Also, in the first minute of the race, I was smoked by a group of three people with special needs who were running hand in hand.

Does it make me a bad person that I was glad when I passed them?

group shot, after the race
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

After the race, the big group of foreigners gathered. About half of the people in this picture are not actually Canadian, but Virginia had the flag and stood in the cold for about an hour to be our photographer/cheerleader, and so we did what she told us to do.

Today the race went really well. I smashed my previous best time (and best-ever training time) by coming in at 28:52. The last 5k race I ran was in July, and I had a 32:55 or something like that, and the best I've had on the treadmill was 30:35.

Yesterday evening a friend came over to help me cover the trip for the race, afterwhich I left for Suncheon, got on the fastest bus there EVER, and hung out with friends and it was AWESOME. I laughed really hard, ate banana bread, and found out that there are three other foreigner women who have "lost" their wallets on a bus in the somewhat recent past. Either there are a bunch of forgetful folks, or we all should be a lot more careful.

We got up this morning, and after Virginia made us an awesome breakfast - which was supplemented by Kashi Go-Lean Crunch from Carol!!! - and got together with a couple other folks who were running.

For some reason, they wanted all the foreigners at the front, and it turned out that we were grouped with the folks with handicaps or other special needs who left four minutes before the rest of the race. In thinking back, it was probably both for the photo op and to keep one of us from winning, because that kind of stuff happens here.

The weather wasn't as cold as I thought it would be, and although the wind was evil on the first half, it was sunny and beautiful. The run felt good, and I am so glad I did it! I would love to find a way to really be able to train for a longer distance in the reasonably near future. The challenge will be finding a place that isn't a treadmill to run.

dependence

Next weekend, I'll have been in Korea for 3 months.

When you move here, everyone tells you that there are certain cycles, and how the three and six month marks are usually really difficult.

I'm not unhappy being in Korea. I'm actually considering a second year here already (though I probably try to move to Suncheon, Yeosu, or Mokpo. Heck, even Jungma - the "city" nearby - would be okay). But the past couple of days have sort of thrown me for a loop. At one point this afternoon, I was laying on the floor of my living room sobbing. And it really is situations, not general unhappiness. The jerk at the gym really was not reasonable, and losing my wallet like that? I don't even know how I did it - seriously. I wasn't able to climb. Then I tried to take money out using my passbook and couldn't, and when I got to the bank in Jungma, it was closed. I was sitting in the bus station wearing my sunglasses so people couldn't see how close to the edge of tears I was, and ended up crying in the bathroom of the terminal. twice. A friend gave me a loan in order to get home this afternoon, and told me I'd be dumb to not take another to go to the race tomorrow, that I'd be able to pay him back on Monday so it's not a big deal. He'll be stopping by this evening, and I'll leave for Suncheon late, but I'm going. I hate being dependent, but so grateful for the help right now.

Okay, a couple of things that are good:
* I drove my bike to the ATM that is on the other end of town and was the most proficient I have been yet
* I have a friend nearby that I can call when I need help
* If bad things come in threes, I'm done for this round - 1) the jerk 2) the wallet 3)the bank.

I should note, I'm not writing this for pity or anything like that. When I started with this, I wanted to make sure that I was sharing the actual experience. There are times when being here is hard and ugly. Then there are little girls who want you to dance with them, bus drivers who make sure you are on the right bus, the excitement of trying new things, and middle school students who catch a dragonfly to keep it from bashing into the windows. What I mean is, this isn't always sunshine and lollypops, but it isn't horrible, either.

also,

Dear Self,
When sitting in the middle of the living room sobbing, a good question to ask oneself might be, "have you had anything other than a protein bar and junk food to eat today?" If the answer is no, you should eat. Duh.

You are sometimes teh dumb,
Me

wallet

as i was standing in line to get my ticket for the second part of my trip this morning, I realized that I had lost my walet.

They we able to get me on a bus back to Gwangyang, and a friend came over and made sure I could get home. I'll be going down to use my passbook to get some cash, have the credit card I kept at home, and am getting everything else called and all that.

What a huge pain, and I feel stupid.

ETA: I wasn't able to use my passbook. I don't have enough cash to get to and from Suncheon for the race tomorrow.

ETA (again): Because Harold is wonderful and very nice, I will be able to go to the race tomorrow. I owe him a great deal more than the money he is lending me.

confrontation

what until about 8:00 or so tonight was an awesome day ended with one of my most upsetting encounters in Korea.

From a student who gave me a package of Pepero candy (basically Pocky) to the secretary who made me a rosette pin, the day at the school I go to on Fridays was nice. Lunch was edible and identifiable, I wasn't asked to eat anything I didn't want to eat, and although my lessons were somewhat lack-luster, they didn't fall flat.

An incredibly adorable little girl named MiNa has decided that she's my friend, and when I was walking to my apartment after school, she took my hand and danced while she walked me to the door.

I used my motorcycle for transportation to the gym. This is of note because it was the first time I have used it for a purpose, as opposed to just riding around my neighborhood.

I had my best 5K time ever, and with a few tweaks, will have an awesome playlist for the run on Sunday.

I was able to do three sets of chin-up to flexed arm hang. (I have never been able to do 3 after a run) I then did a few sets of modified pull-ups and was feeling strong and pretty good about myself.

And then one of the men who is not a regular at the gym I go to came up to me while I was setting up one of the barbells for my next exercise. In broken English, he told me that I shouldn't be lifting weights, I should be stretching and running, indicating his own belly and trying to touch me. I responded with a sharp "NO" and was angry so said really quickly, "If I lift more than you, you don't get to tell me anything." I'm about 99% sure he didn't understand the actual words (it was fast enough that even the teachers who speak English very well and who are used to my speech patterns wouldn't have caught it), but got the point of "leave me the fuck alone." He backed of, still talking about me in Korean, and I did the exercise, still obviously fuming. Between sets, he starts gesturing to me about a v-shape, and mimed jumping rope, used gestures to indicate that my shoulders were too muscular, and wouldn't stop talking at me. I said NO and STOP loudly enough that it was clear the meaning, tried the "stop staring at me" phrase, the big "no" crossed arm thing, and he replied "ok, ok" but still mumbled in Korean, and for the rest of the time i was there, was talking to other men in the gym about me, as he kept looking at me and gesturing to me as he was saying it.

And no one - not even the guy who works there and thinks it is great that I am strong - said anything, even when it was obvious that I was upset and telling him to stop.

And I know it was because he is weaker than I am and it was how he was trying to reassert himself, and I know that some of the younger men really couldn't say anything to him because of the whole social order thing, but I have never wanted to hit anyone as much as I wanted to lay this dude out. And I still want to cry and scream and break things.

I have had times here when I know people disapprove of me, or stare, or say ugly things. But it has never been so blatant, so in my face and so unavoidable as it was tonight.

Rock

Yesterday, I went back to the hiking/climbing store with the climbing wall in the basement to look at climbing shoes. Again. I'll be going on a climb tomorrow and wanted to at least have my own shoes.

After an initial "no, we can't help you," I discovered the power of "I don't understand." After a little back and forth, I at least was able to try on a pair of incredibly painful shoes. There was no way these would work, but I WAS able to convince them that climbing shoes were supposed to be tight. They took me downstairs (I think to have one of the climbers tell me I was wrong) and one of the guys came up and helped me go through all the shoes they had in stock. I ended up with a pair that were far more comfortable, if a little expensive. Then they knocked off about $25. Yay!

They took me back downstairs to climb on the wall. I ended up getting a free rock climbing lesson from one of the folks in the local climbing club, and I was asked to come back on Monday. He wanted to put me on one of the intermediate walls (he said I didn't look like a beginner) but I don't have the technical knowledge or the strength to be on the walls at more of an angle. I also learned how to climb on a gym wall as opposed to regular climbing. I'm not able to use strength and dint of will to pull/push myself up, but rather have to think about handholds, footing, and crosses to work my way across, which is a lot harder.

Tomorrow I will get up wicked early to take a couple of buses to a climb in Gochang, then will take a couple of buses back to Suncheon to get ready for the 5k on Sunday, where I will be meeting friends an hopefully not embarassing myself.

Teacher field trip

Very often, things happen and I have no idea why. Kind of par for the course here, and I'm starting to (at least try) to go with it. For example, yesterday we had a strange schedule so that teachers could go on a field trip. I was invited along, and getting paid to go for a hike? No question about it.

So we pile into a bus and head out near a small town (Hadong, for folks in Korea) in a neighboring province. There were "treat" bags that contained dried squid, random strange fish... things... crackers, tangerines and persimmons (which are now my favorite fruit). Once I removed as much strange fish as possible from the fruit, it was tasty.

I had asked a co-teacher if this was a "running shoe" hike or a "hiking boot" hike, and he told me that it wasn't very steep. Well, it wasn't very LONG (only about 30 minutes to the top) but was darn near straight up at times. Like, needing to use the rope handrail at times steep, and with the fallen pine needles, a bit tricky. I ended up on my butt once on the way down, and wish I had been wearing the boots, just for more stable footing, but whatever.

After the hike, we went to a small village that had been the set of a movie based on a book that was based on a folktale (something like that, from what I've been able to gather - the information one of the teachers gave me was in Korean) and it was interesting to see the model of a traditional Korean village.

fortress
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

This is the view from the top of the hike looking towards the mountains.

me at the fortress
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

Me at the top.

me in the village
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

After the hike, we visited a village that was the set of a movie (and maybe also a tv show - not 100% clear on that) and one of the people thought I should have my picture taken.

buddha
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

This Buddha was next to the trail on the hike down, but situated in a way that I wasn't able to see it until I was back on the ground.

bike

The bike won't start.

This happened last night. I called a friend, he came over during his lunch break, it started, no problem. I feel and look stupid, but whatever, happy it works.

I just tried to start it again.

It won't start.

I'm so mad I can't see straight. I know that I'm doing it right, and it just won't fucking do what I want it to do.

DAMNIT.

ETA: Went on a hike with my school today. It was awesome. Will post about it (with pictures, because hey, that makes everything more interesting, right?) when I can do something other than fume.

ETA (again): fixed it. well, worked around it. When you kick start, you feel like a badass. Just so you know.

rocks and running

At the beginning of the week, one of the folks in the foreigner rock climbing community told me about an indoor climbing center in another part of town which is only about 6-8 miles away (but takes 45 minutes by bus). After determining that they indeed still existed, I went over on Saturday afternoon to see what the cost was per day, and what equipment I would need if I wanted to practice there.

When I got to Gwangyang-Eup, I got in a taxi and tried to tell the driver where to go. I have decent enough skills at this point that I can usually make myself understood, but obviously not yesterday. When he obviously didn't understand a word I said, I showed him the address written down (note: I am dumb and should have written in Hangul before leaving the house) and when THAT didn't work, I showed him the phone number. On which he couldn't read some of my numbers. After me showing the phone number on my fingers and using my poor Korean counting skills we still weren't able to get through to the climbing center, and after a group discussion with some of the other drivers I was told to get out of the cab. I did a little "I don't understand" and a little bit of a pout (hey, it works), and then one of the other drivers took me by the arm, walked me down the street and pointed to a store about a block away.

The shop was mostly hiking with some climbing stuff, and while he had some shoes they were all too small for me. He also has some harnesses, but they were more expensive than I would be able to find on-line WITH the shipping, so I passed. The walls were in the basesment of the shop, so while it would be worth the cost for a drop-in, I don't know if I would want to pay for a month or more. There were some overhang-things built, and some ceiling holds, but I'm still at the basic "find hand-hold, find foot-hold" point. The owner speaks some English, and when I tried to ask how much for one sessions, he told me that he will let me in the first time for free (there was a sign that seemed to indicate that it was $5 for one session that I saw on my way out) and gave me the web address for the local climbing group. I'm going to see if I can run some of the site though babelfish and get one of the teachers at my school to see what he can find in Suncheon.

Next weekend is the 5K race in Suncheon. I'm going to be so.freakin.slow. Right now I have decent enough times on the treadmill (well, decent for me) but outside without the display to tell me how fast or slow I am? I'm not so sure. I know it isn't about how fast I finish, but rather THAT I finish, but still... ugh.

annoyed

After about a year of being a Mac true believer, I have finally found something to be disappointed with.

I love my mac, and never plan to go back to PC, but I'm trying to find a webcam so that I can both talk to and see people. And for the mac, the only thing supported is the rather expensive iSight. All the regular, cheap webcams? Not supported.

Now, there are some shareware hacks out there that will let you use a USB camera. Finding one of them in Korea? Not the easiest task out there. So right now, I have a $30 Samsung webcam that only shows a black screen when I test it, and it annoys me to no end.

With that being said, anyone in Korea need a webcam? I have a brand new one (with software and USB cable) that I'll make you a deal on. Like, buy me dinner, or a box of peanut butter panda puffs, or a ball of pretty yarn, or something and it is yours.

The past couple of weeks have been BUSY. I'm looking forward to a nice boring evening at home and being able to sleep late tomorrow morning. I'm trying to find out if the rock climbing gym I've heard about in a nearby town is still open. If it is I may try to head over tomorrow afternoon, and may be going for a hike in Suncheon on Sunday.

After getting the bike back to my house, I've been a little afraid of it. I have taken it out a few times, but mostly just stopping and starting, shifting gears, getting used to starting on minor inclines/declines. Once I get going, I'm fine. I'm just lacking in confidence.

Last night it was ridiculous - there was a van that was parked in such a way that it made seeing the traffic coming down the hill impossible, so I totally psyched myself out and refused to cross the street. It didn't help that the street I wanted be on was one lane but not one way so cars kept coming at me, and it was at about the busiest time of the evening (though granted, it still isn't all that busy). I am a big baby and need to get over it. The church behind my apartment has a reasonably big parking lot, and I plan to head over there to practice this weekend, but I DO have to cross the street to get to the gas station at some point. Town is mostly empty on the weekends, so hopefully I'll be less of a chicken. I mention all of this only for those who think I'm being reckless. I am being slow and careful and cautious.

I had dinner with friends in Jungma Wednesday, and made dinner for a friend at my house last night. This is of note because it is the first time that anyone other than my co-teacher has been to my apartment. Given how far I am from everyone, that really isn't all that surprising, but it was nice to feel like I'm worth the trip. (This isn't a pity-party - I don't know where to go out around here, and there isn't a lot to do, and it IS more interesting to be in one of the other towns if people want to go out. It was just nice that someone wanted to make the trip out here, is all.)

Rock climbing - the photos

Heidi, one of the folks at the climb, was way more on the ball than I was and took a TON of really awesome photos.

group - Gurey
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

Part of the group at the bottom

first climb
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

On my first climb

first climb
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

Me at the top!
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

View from the top. It was after this they had to tell me how to actually get down...

group
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

Another group shot - I think this was right before I tried the second climb. I got about 2/3 of the way up and started to get shaky and couldn't find a foot hold and freaked out a little and rappelled back down.

Last weekend, part 2

Saturday Night:

We took a car and a taxi to Yeosu for the costume party, and struggled a bit to find a hotel room - Korea doesn't really celebrate Halloween, so when you have about 8 white folks, some of whom are in rather dramatic costumes, it makes it a little difficult. We were turned away by two places until we wised up and sent some of the more normal looking folks and left the others waiting outside.

Some pictures:

cowgirls and Indians
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

At the party in Yeosu. Virginia as "Bend It Like Beckham," me as a cowgirl.

fan death
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

In Korea, fan death is thought to occur if someone sleeps in a closed room with a fan on.

Nicola went as fan death. She was awesome.

umpa-lumpa
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

costume dedication - he had a tailor make the costume, and spent all night in full-on orange make-up.


There are a few more pictures on the flickr account, and Virginia and Stu have way more pictures. Amazing what people are able to do here, what with out good secondhand stores or the other usual suspects for costume-making supplies.

It was kind of amazing to be around so many other white folks! Conversations at a normal pace!! Shocking!! I'm a little sad that I didn't stick it out for the norabang (singing room) afterwards, but i was a tired little monkey and I went back early-ish (but late for me!) because the next day I went rock climbing!!

Sunday:
After being impressed at a the amazing bounce-back of a slept-in sari, I headed over to a friends meet up with a bunch of folks and jumped on the train to Guyre, a tiny town just north of where I am. From there we went to Yeongsan Pokpo (Yoengsan Falls) which was incredibly beautiful, and which I will document when I can get the pictures from people who are smarter than I am and who remembered to take them. I was able to borrow a climbing harness and shoes, and did one and a half climbs - about 2/3 of the way up the second, I kind of got stuck and could feel myself get shaky, I couldn't find a hand or foot hold that I could really grab onto and instead of taking a second and then going up, I got a little scared and frustrated so I rappelled back down. I was annoyed with myself, but oh well. I did reasonably well on the first climb, and had a really great time. This is something I would very much like to try to do again. There are a couple of climbing gyms (or climbing walls in gyms) in cities where I have friends, and I will try to join the foreigner climbing group to go to real, outside-type places. It was such a great environment - people were really nice, the weather was beautiful, and I all-round had an amazing time.

About a year ago, I never, ever would have even CONSIDERED rock climbing or motorcycle riding or running a race. Now, I feel that if I ask my body to do something, most of the time it meets the challenge. I still get scared, but I'm starting to trust myself more and just do things. That, I think, might be the most amazing part.

Motorcycle!!

I just drove my bike home!!

To be blunt, it was pretty scary and there were times I had to stop and take a deep breath and collect myself (like starting going downhill - that wasn't a lot of fun) but I DID it! I followed a friend who was very nice about how long it took for me to make what should be the 10 minute drive (read: long time) and it gave me the chance to get used to the feel of the bike and what it was like to drive on the road versus drive on a practice road.

And I didn't cry. I have a tendancy to start to cry a little when I make myself do things I either think I cannot do, or that scare me. This was both of those things.

Considering I sort of live on the side of a mountain here, I should probably learn to feel a little more comfortable with the starting on the downhills. But then, when I was learning to drive a manual transmission, I sucked at that, too. Practice, practice, practice. And learning to trust myself a bit more.

Halloween Weekend (part 1)

Three days, three towns, lots of bus rides.

Friday: After a day at Daap (how much do I love teaching at that school!? interobang!) I came home and packed a backback for the weekend, dashed to the bus terminal, and hopped on a bus for Suncheon.

* I should note that for some reason, the bus terminal in Gwangyeong has moved, and I'm not really sure where or why. Okay, I really don't care why, but the where would sure be helpful to know. I gave up and took a taxi.

In Suncheon, after arriving at Virginia'sI realized that the party the bar was having was supposed to be a costume party. Oops. After whining for a while, I decided I was "every other woman at my gym" which kind of morphed into popular girl to counter a friend's Emo boy costume, and wore lots of makeup, a pink tank-top with rhinestones, and my new favorite article of clothing, a baby-pink hoodie. Seriously, wearing this sweatshirt makes everything a little bit better. Oh, and I wore glitter. It was awesome in its lameness. (Okay, maybe just lame. Anyway.) Went out for a while, saw bunches of folks, ate hottok (these sort-of-pancakes that are stuffed with brown sugar and deliciousness) and laughed a lot.

6 people, one apartment in Shidae Apartments (read - somewhat small). Stu took the balcony.

Saturday:
After an amazing brunch, we finally set off. For motorcycle safty gear, it seems like women's jackets are a tiny bit too short, but US men's are too long, so my thinking was that a Korean men's jacket would be perfect. Virginia took me to her mechanic, and we ended up meeting my new bike. Or what will be my bike in a few days (a friend uses this mechanic, too, and had the bike checked out here, they should be delivering it to Gwangyang in the next couple of days!!) Sadly, I only had my camera phone:

(the bike and me and the bike. Only showing the last one to prove that it is a little bike - the first shot makes her look bigger than she really is.)

After extended goofyness and giddiness (all by me), a helmet for Virginia and a test drive for Stu, there was E-Mart.

There are some stores which are almost like wonderlands. They have a couple of delicious and familiar things in a sea of "Well, this LOOKS like it might be..." and E-Mart was one of those places. Evidenced by their having Enviro-Kids Peanut Butter Panda Puffs. Now, while I'm not the greatest fan of the peanut butter panda puff, it IS peanut butter flavored children's cereal, and beggars can't be choosers. I bought two boxes.

Okay, there will be more to follow that elaborates (with pictures!), but it is getting late - so the short version:
* working out at a gym and not having a single person say ANYTHING - Suncheon is awesome.
* amazing dinner
* Party, with friends in wonderful costumes
* First time rock climbing!!
* and being harassed by someone who appeared to be both mentally challenged and emotionally disturbed in the Suncheon bus termial. I have had bad bus-weirdo karma this week. Eep.

knitting

There really is nothing like knitting in lovely silk yarn on needles about two size too large for the yarn (but you are getting such fantastic drape and when blocked it would look amazing so you don't want to start over and you don't want to have to go buy another set of needles) to show how dramatically different your knit and purl tension really is.

and wow, that's a bad sentence. Also, i realize that for some of you, I could have posted:

'Twas brillig, and the slithy toves
Did gyre and gimble in the wabe;
All mimsy were the borogoves,
And the mome raths outgrabe.

and had it make as much sense.

In other knitting news, I bought the pattern for Hopeful and may look at adapting the sleeves to full length, and may futz with the bow thing at the front. But I like the lines, and I think it is a good cause, and I wanted a pattern for a nice v-neck sweater that might make it look like I have a waist.

kindness

I'm still sort of sick (not a lot, but still...), and when I'm sick I'm kind of mushy. That's the disclaimer.

Over the past several weeks, I've noticed many more teachers trying to talk with me - people who my first weeks at the school didn't say anything. I know that a lot Koreans won't try to speak English because they are afraid they'll make mistakes, so when people start trying to make an effort, I really, really appreciate it. Today, I noticed that one of the teachers was whispering to one of the English teachers, and then asked if I was ready for sports day - I'm almost positive he was trying to make sure he said it correctly. Another teacher came by and reminded me about volleyball practice tomorrow, and a third found out about yoga classes in a nearby neighborhood for me. One of the teachers I hung out with at the field trip took pictures and today gave me copies, and people make sure that I feel like I'm included in the meals before and after volleyball, that when there are snacks in the teachers' room I know I can take part, and invite me to go to lunch with them everyday.

All of these little kindnesses really make me wish I had better understanding of Korean, and will be why I try to take the bus to Suncheon once a week to try to get better. I may make mistakes but if they are willing to try, so am I.

Doctors and Korean lessons

started to get the cold of DOOM last week - the kind where my voice goes completely away or I sound like Patty and Selma from The Simpsons. So, since today was day two of all-day sports competition and I had nothing to do, and the last two times this happened it was a sinus infection that progressively got worse until I was starting to cough from the river of phlegm going down my throat so badly that even the students suggested I go to the doctor, I went to the doctor today. Or rather, the hospital, because somehow, here that seemed to be what everyone wanted me to do.

And it is Salang Pyongwon - Love Hospital. How could I say no?

I took a taxi in to Jungma, and in less time than it would have taken to for me to wait for the doctor when I had an appointment in the US, I got in, was taken to the only reception person willing to speak English, saw a doctor (who spoke English reasonably well), went three doors down to get a bunch of packets of pills and a bottle of really vile syrup of some sort, and got out the door. Now, I'm not really sure what is wrong - I think he agreed sinus infection - and I'm supposed to go back on Friday. All told, including taxis to the hospital, to Home Plus, and back home, I spent $5 less than my co-payment for a doctor in New Mexico. AND I didn't have an appointment or have to wait at all! (my co-teacher called to warn them that I would coming by - that probably helped.)

I also went to Home Plus. It is a wonderland. Dark Chocolate Hershey's Kisses. Wheat bread. Tortilla chips. Single-serving frozen pizza that doesn't taste like the sauce was made from ketchup AND with only cheese and nothing strange - like carrots or corn - on it. All manner of deliciousness.

Also, the Face Shop, which is kind of like The Body Shop, has nailpolish for a dollar. A DOLLAR!! How can you go wrong?
________________

Last night, I went up to Suncheon for the free Korean class. I wish I was closer! It was good because it made me think a lot faster when reading Korean letters, and I like the idea of having the struture of a "class" to make me actually study. It was also a really good reminder of how hard my classes must be to all but some of the more advanced students. So, more differentiation in the classes I teach, and even though it is a long way to go (and I missed the last bus out of Suncheon and had to taxi to the main terminal in Gwangyang-Eup - about halfway home for me! oops!) as long as I can cut out a little bit earlier, I think I'm going to try to make it back for the Monday classes.

...Secure the blessings of liberty...

AP Journalist held without charges

1st Amendment

Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the government for a redress of grievances.

Oh, but wait, he isn't American. Null and void.

This is horrific.

(Normally, I'm not a fan of using other blogs as a source, but the writer links to several different - legitimate - news sources.)

Obama

I love Barack Obama. And while he may not be a magical solution, he is smart and good and well spoken, and not embarrassing to have as a representative of the US. And while I'm cynical enough that I honestly don't know if the US would ever elect a black man as president, I think that Obama would be one of the few who might be able to build the censuses necessary to do it.

This weekend has been pretty lovely, all things considered.

Friday:
I attended a workshop that I was notified about the day before. There was some timing issues with the bus (okay, not with the bus, but with the fact that while eleventy-million taxis go by while I'm walking to work, that day I had to walk forever to find one. Foiled! And also maybe that I move too slowly in the morning.) that was solved with some creative taxi solutions, and I crashed out for another two hours on the bus. Literally, sprawled across the seats. I'm so classy.

I got to hang out with awesome folks, though there is something a little sad about losing my voice the day I'm finally around people where I can talk at a natural pace all the time.

An aside - I have a cold. Well, actually, I have the exact same symptoms as the sinus infection I had last school year, and what I need is flonaze and antibiotics. And I need to try to find a doctor who speaks English. When I asked my co-teacher, her response was that she thought ALL doctors would be able to do so. Um, I'm guessing she's wrong on that one.

So, hanging out with friends in Gwangju, a ride from a friend to Yeosu (didn't have to take the bus! woo!), and a evening that included going to the gym (GEE, I'm a GIRL and I'm strong? and that is unusual here? you don't say.) curry, pizza, and poker. I'm not good at poker, but at least I came out ahead.

Saturday:
I love sitting around and talking to people over breakfast. And I got to do it two times! Yay. Also, Banana Nut granola bars ROCK. After that, I almost learned how change the oil on a motorcycle. I was only able to learn how to change the oil filter, as the bolt over the drain didn't want to budge without different tools. Anyway. I put the fairings back on, which was the only thing useful I really did. But I did learn a little more.

Motorcycling: One of the more interesting points of having two parents who are psychologists is that you are able to fairly accurately diagnose your own neuroses, yet have no idea how to actually CHANGE THE REACTION. Acknowledgment is not behavior change.

The short version is that the motorcycling started out reasonably well, became rather bad (not TOO dramatic, and mostly about me psyching myself out), and ended with me getting un-psyched-out and getting over my fear of driving into a ditch or into the curb. Or into parked cars, or that a vehicle was going to come out of nowhere. Once I was able to relax a little and realize that I AM able to make the bike go where I want it to go, things got better again quickly. I am able to do figure 8's, loops, and all the basics. What I need is actual road experience. I still do not like traffic, and would like to have the chance to practice in an area where there are a limited number of others on the road, which makes me want to have a bike here NOW.

To that end, I have bought this:

Random pictures

100_0915.JPG
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

This photo is part of a series based on the brillance of one Ms. Parker. This is the bus schedule for the direct bus from Gwangyeong to Jungma, and the direct, if not fast, bus to Suncheon. Tomorrow there will be an additional photo of the board in Jungma going all over, and this weekend there will be panoramas of the bus schedules in Yeosu and probably Suncheon.

If I'm really smart, I'll also remember to take one with my phone, so I'll always have it with me.

100_0916.JPG
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

This is a photo of the main street in Gwangyeong, my neighborhood. This was taken at about 4:45 pm, and illustrates why I think that practice in riding a motorcycle on streets would be best initially accomplished here.

100_0917.JPG
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

My apartment has basically woodgrain shelf paper covering the floors. Carpets are either ugly or expensive or both, and I really didn't want to make a huge financial investment. I found placemat-sized rag rugs in an "everything" store here for about $.50 a pop, and decided that it would do.

While there is no doubt it is kind of hidious, I love this rug. This was the protype, so I will probably re-duct tape the thing together soon, but it feels nice and is much needed color. There are some other rugs thrown around at most points of entry - the edge of the entryway, the door to the back balcony, the doorway to the bathroom - and the color just makes me happier. Perhaps it is ugly, but it is ugly in a really cute way! (this picture makes it look worse than it is - I promise)

100_0920.JPG
Originally uploaded by recklesswater.

At some point, someone who live in this apartment put really ugly stickers all over the place. I will document the bathroom before they are attacked with a razorblade of a sort, but for this, I'm just covering

Chin-up

Guess who did her first chin-up EVER today?!

I cannot believe this! Even in middle school when we had to do those flexed-arm-hang-things for the presidential fitness test, I wasn't able to do more that 1 second. Seriously. And today, (which, by the way, marks excatly two months since I arrived in Korea) I did it.

Car

Today was great, and there are lots of things I'd like to say about it, and there are pictures.

But this post isn't about that.

This post is about the fact that I just submitted the final payment for my car. The first vehicle that I bought all on my own.

Little tonka-truck-lookin' Rav4, I miss you!!

Over the past few weeks, I've been finding it harder and harder to get excited about going to the gym. The past few days, I've had to force myself to go, and the running has been even worse. Except for one trail that is a pretty far walk/hike, it is a choice between un-runnably steep and/or concrete cobblestones, which my knees cannot handle. So I've been stuck on the treadmill and hate it.

I decided I need motivation - something to work towards. Before moving here, I had started to research running groups and there is a club in Seoul, but their race calendar ended in July and they haven't updated for the rest of the year. Today, I asked one of the teachers who has been incredibly helpful to help me find races in the next few months, and he found the Sunchon Marathon. I guess marathon is a general-purpose term for race here, as there is a 5k, 10k, and 1/2 marathon. So today, I signed up for a 5k on November 12th. I don't feel like I would be able to prepare for a 10k with the time I have (and would stab out my eyes from boredom if I had to run 6 miles on a treadmill) and as I am doing 5k several times a week on the tread at about a minute faster than my fastest race time, should be able to do reasonably well. I still won't set any speed records, but I hope to be able to get in under 30 min.

Unrelated, today the teacher room is mouth-noise central - gum popping, slurping, lip smacking, teeth sucking - and it is about to send me 'round the bend.

Fruit

After I run or lift, I usually drink a protein shake. In super simple terms, the idea is that it encourages your body to maintain/build muscle instead of breaking down the muscle for fuel.

I've been experimenting with fruit/protein mixes, and for a while was making the shakes with frozen peach chunks (which, by the way, was really, really wonderful) but now that I am out of peaches, I've been experimenting with other fruit. Plus at one of the schools I go to, the principal gave me a big bottle of concentrated plum juice (they make it at the school) so I've been putting shots of that in, too. I mean, what the heck else am I going to do with it?

Yesterday, it was a persimmon/plum juice mix, which was surprisingly delicious! (good, as there will be TON of persimmons at the market soon!) and today is Chinese Cantalope+plum juice.

Odd. Not bad, but still, kind of... Odd.

Also, this would be two days in a row when I have eaten a fruit I have never had before.

쳐다보지 마세요.

his weekend, I got the chance to hang out with a girl from Ohio who teaches at one of the elementary schools in my neighborhood. I got the chance to speak in English! Fluently! She lives in the bigger area not too far away, and I am trying to get over my ideas that a five dollar taxi ride is paying too much.

I also just had a teacher I work with teach me how to say "please stop staring" in Korean. (In Hangul, it is 쳐다보지 마세요. the Romanization is cheo da boji masseyo.)

It gets old, but I understand and am fine with people looking at me. I get that I'm one of the first white people some people have ever seen in person, and that it is pretty darn interesting. I get it. And most people realize that I'm a person, and at least are somewhat respectful, or are at least nice about it.

But what ISN'T nice is when people forget that I'm a person, and when they keep staring in really disrespectful ways. Really, I can see you staring at my ass while I'm on the treadmill - there is a whole wall of mirrors, and you aren't being subtle. Or when I meet your eyes to let you know you've taken it a little too far and you then start staring about a foot lower than my eyes? Not appropriate.

And the thing is, I know that it is considered rude here to stare, at least in that way. And so it is the fact that sometimes I'm not treated like an actual person that really gets to me. And I know that I'm lucky, and that if I were in a bigger area it would be worse. But sometimes it is just too much.

쳐다보지 마세요.

if you are bored, you are boring

Once upon a time, I thought it would be great to get paid to sit around and do nothing but play on the internets and knit all day.

Over the past two days, I have found that it is the most profoundly boring thing ever.

Students are taking mid-term exams, and so after a day of having all but one of my classes pulled for test prep and a day of nothing at all due to testing, I was incredibly grateful for the chance to go to my elementary school workshop. Tomorrow I will be at the other middle school, which while usually also very boring, will be less boring as I will actually have classes to teach.

The downside to having the class was that since students were done after lunch, a group of teachers went on a group hike up a nearby mountain. I was invited, but couldn't go because of the workshop.

It is interesting to be able to watch the dynamics of what goes on in a school, and see how similar it is everywhere. Even when you don't know the language, you can see the personalities and the way people interact - maybe even more clearly. It was kind of bittersweet to sit and thing about the people that I would have gotten along with if I had been able to communicate with them or them with me. Because English is a required subject, most of the teachers have at least some reading and writing ability in English, and several are actually pretty good. But there is a difference between being able to say hello, thank you, and goodbye in shared languages and being able to make friends.

Spoiled

I am one of the most spoiled kids on the planet.

My mom sent me another big box of goodness! Combine me whining about it getting cold, whining my apartments lack of blankets, and also whining about the expense of buying blankets, and I must have created a critical whine factor that made my mother jump into action and send the duvet I "gave" to her before I left. And if that had been it, it would have been pretty amazing, but then she added a ton of other good stuff, too!! Yay!! WHOLE WHEAT TORTILLAS!! A whole bag of em!! Treats in the form of Mexican food and bars and oatmeal and cereal, and cute stuff for my classroom for Halloween. AND!! And a sweater worth of yarn from the Navajo Arts and Crafts Enterprise (basically, Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride), which I had asked for as a Christmas gift.

I am very lucky that my parents love me as much as they do. There is no way I could have done this without them. From boxes full of both necessities and treats, to financial help at critical times, to buying and sending a winter coat because nothing here is long enough, I am so grateful. Truly.

Seoul

Me in Seoul.

Seoul was wonderful! The weather was amazing, we basically ate our way through the city, and all in all had a lovely time.

The picture above is from a temple near Insadong, which after the dirt and... volume... of the westerners in Itaewon, was wonderful. This was also the neighborhood where I saw some of the most incredible paper I have ever seen in my life. Seriously.

Other temple/Insadong pictures:



(I love the vividness of the colors used on the temples here)


This temple area is in the middle of Seoul. It is pretty wonderful to find this place after the buzz of the city. The main temple is behind me as I'm taking the photo, but I liked how this was framed against the office building.


A monk on the street in Insadong.



This lady is making one of the most amazing street foods ever. In Korean, it is called Hottok, and it is basically a sort of pancake that is filled with brown sugar and fried. I used to love a good funnel cake, but I will never be able to look at them the same after one of these.

There was lots of shopping, lots of food (including two of us clearing out 30+ Nature Valley granola bars from a corner store, Mexican, Indian, and burgers), but the highlight really was the tour to the DMZ. I don't really know what to say about that, really.

Itaewon was worth it for the bookstore and the restaurants, but there are a LOT of white folks with bad manners there (but I should also point out that it was only the Korean men who thought I was a prostitute...)

We only has a couple of days, so there was a lot that we missed. Also, because of the holiday, many of the places I really wanted to go were closed. We are already talking about a weekend trip in November.

Also, running into people I knew, being able to navigate the subway on my own, and having enough of a command of the language that I was able to barter in markets and get a taxi to take me where I needed to go reminded me how far I have come in terms of language. I have a LONG way to go, but I feel better about using what little I have.